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San Sebastian is the undisputed queen of Basque resorts, with its chichi La Concha Bay resort. The deep, still aqua bay and sparkling beach bounded by lush, rolling hills has drawn celebrities and sun lovers to the mild winters and hot summers for generations. Come in July and August and expect to have to push your way through the crowds, especially if you arrive during the week of Semana Grande in mid-August. The week is packed with music and sports events, as well as world-famous firework displays. On August 31, it is worth walking along Semana Grande street to witness the unique candlelit ceremony held to commemorate San Sebastian's devastating 1813 fire. San Sebastian has three beaches: the Playa de la Concha, Ondaretta and the Playa de Gros. La Concha is probably the prettiest, with a wide crescent of sand stretching around the bay, but it's also the most crowded. Ondaretta is less packed and almost as pretty, and most consider Ondaretta to be the best beach for swimming. The atmosphere here is more calm than La Concha's bikini party atmosphere, and locals call the beach La Diplom tica as a nod to the patrician types from Madrid who vacation here. Though Playa de Gros is almost deserted, don't bother visiting. The name says it all about this landing spot for all the river's pollution. Once you're off the beach, you'll probably want to hit the old quarter for a go at the bars and waterside restaurants crowding the narrow and noisy streets. Tapas are laid out at all but the fanciest bars for delectable bites of special treats, and shellfish merchants hang out by the harbor to hawk the freshest of fish. Once you're done collecting dinner, the area will satisfy at night, too, with clubs and bars aplenty. The nicest are along the beach promenade, Paseo de la Concha, or save money by hanging out with the more bohemian crowd in the Reyes Cat¢licos behind the Baroque cathedral. However, the wildest, weirdest party of the year is the Procession of Drummers, or Tamborrada, an all-night celebration that lasts from midnight January 19 to noon January 20. Adults and children take to the street to beat on drums and barrels, mimicking the rhythms played by the smartly-uniformed bands. Many of the Tamborrada tunes were composed especially for the occasion by famed composer Raimundo Sarriegi.