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Salvador's culture -- music, food, handicrafts, festivals, and society -- is infused with the heritage of the Africans who stumbled off the European slavers in earlier centuries. That sad history has been transformed into a vibrant new life by successive generations who married their African inheritance with the customs of the new land. Perhaps nowhere is this interconnection more apparent than at Salvador. Once the busiest port in Brazil and the country's capital, Salvador -- now capital of the state of Bahia -- has retained much of the architectural glory of the boom days when most of Brazil's sugar, gold, and diamonds left the country on boats from the city's docks on the Todos los Santos. Opulent churches and mansions glitter with decorations of gold. Preservationists have safeguarded the private homes, squares, and hand-chipped paving stones of Pelourinho, and this historic district is now a popular tourist destination and the site of art and folklore festivals. The city was built on two levels. The administration buildings and residences were constructed on the hills, while the forts, docks, and warehouses were located on the beaches. The city is still divided into upper and lower cities connected by stone steps, alleyways, and the Lacerda Elevator, opened to the public in 1872 and providing a panoramic view of the city. Another popular tourist destination, the Modelo Market, is located in the "Lower City" where the distinctive pottery and textiles of the area are displayed along with other regional handicrafts, and numerous restaurants offer spicy, African-influenced dishes seasoned with pepper and palm oil. The "Lower City" is also the best place to see a demonstration of capoeira, a martial art developed by African slaves that has grown into a folkloric dance.