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Nicknamed the "Brazilian Venice" because of its numerous canals and waterways, Recife is a major gateway on the northeastern coast and the capital of the state of Pernambuco. This lively city is famous for its beaches, food, and Afro-Brazilian culture and is full of diversions for residents and tourists. The Sao Jos? market dates from 1875. Over 300 stalls and 45 pavilions offer products of every kind, from native sweets, drinks, and produce to magic amulets and local handicrafts. Restaurants and kiosks serve dishes that combine the ingredients and flavors of African, European, and native Indian cultures. A hodgepodge of historical and otherwise remarkable items is on display at the town's museums. At the Homem do Nordeste, exhibits devoted to anthropology, the sugar industry, and popular art coexist in a unique association. Among the museum's striking offerings are a display of "ex-votos" (wax molds offered to saints in thanksgiving for answered prayers) and a complete collection of costumes and props from the Maracatu Elefante, a folk group that performs the Brazilian maracatu dance. The Pernambuco Archaeological and Geographical Museum counts three bronze Dutch cannons (circa 1629), the first press used to print the oldest newspaper in Latin America (Diaro de Pernambuco), and personal objects from the colonial period among its collection. The Pernambuco State Museum mixes colonial relics with Afro-Brazilian ritual objects and Indian items. Historic churches contribute architectural and artistic highlights to the city. Chief among these is the Gilded Chapel, a Baroque structure famous for its wall tile pictures and old gold. The painted ceiling at the Sao Pedro dos Cl?rigos Church is another significant example of Brazilian religious art, and a pair of curious stone mermaids -- symbolizing Recife's ties to the sea -- stands guard on each side of the church's main door.