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With its Old Harbor and crumbling Venetian buildings, the city of Hania exudes character and charm. Hania suffered severe attack by German paratroopers during WW II and earlier endured occupation by the Minoans, Venetians, Egyptians and Turks. Until the title was passed to Iraklion in 1971, Hania was Crete's capital. But because it survived its tumultuous history so gracefully, many islanders still consider Hania to be the island's true capital and certainly its most beautiful city. Walk through Hania's meandering streets, watch the sun set over the old Venetian harbor, or venture into the covered market where merchants sell rounds of Cretan cheese, nuts, olive oil, honey and fresh herbs and produce. It will take you back a century or two, and you'll understand the islanders' fierce dedication to this city. Hania is the starting point for a visit to western Crete, with its lofty mountains, deep gorges and rolling lowlands planted with olive and orange groves. The Samaria Gorge (a spectacular 44 kilometer drive from Hania) is Europe's longest. The 16 kilometer hike takes six hours and begins with a steep descent by staircase from the high Omalos plain. Take plenty of water and a swimsuit - the reward at the end is a dip in the Libyan Sea.