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"The lagoon...was a crystal blue, the beaches were dazzling white, and ever on the outer reef the spray leaped mountainously into the air." That's what best-selling author and Bora Bora fan James Michener had to say about this stunning little island in "Return to Paradise," and Michener's description could not be more accurate. Seen from the air, the stunning view of Bora Bora's main island has been compared to that of "a tiny emerald in a setting of turquoise, encircled by a sheltering necklace of sparkling pearls," a true South Pacific paradise. The setting and scenery are the main reasons why visitors come to the little five-mile island. Tourists are startled to see the dramatic lagoon, with water color ranging from the palest turquoise to the deepest blues surrounding the rich emerald green of the island itself. Towering above, the basalt obelisk of volcanic, dramatic Mount Otemanu rises 2,385 feet above the lagoon in the center of the island. Below, divers and snorkelers enjoy the blissfully beautiful underwater life around the island, one of Bora Bora's chief attractions. If you're a visitor, you'll probably be staying in Vaitape, where most of the island's hotels and amenities are located. The town is tiny -- only about 2,500 people inhabit Vaitape, the majority of the Bora Boran population of 4,500, and visitors who expect swift service, omnipresent air conditioning and the amenities they find at home will be out of luck, as Bora Bora's chief attractions are the casual Polynesian atmosphere and peaceful scenery. Nearly every water sport is enjoyed on Bora Bora, but most famous is its snorkeling. The lagoon's countless species of tropical fish, and brilliantly crystal-clear waters make for some of the most beautiful undersea views in the world. Float underwater and let the gorgeous fish come up and nibble at your skin. If you're in a more thrill-seeking mood, take the shuttles which leave from Vaitape hotels and attend a shark feeding. Visitors get into the water in snorkel gear while guides move ahead and feed the sharks their "breakfast" from a bucket of bait. Used to the guests, the sharks concentrate on the guides feeding them, giving the others a unique opportunity to watch four-foot black-tipped reef sharks swimming by close enough to touch -- if you're brave enough.